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While most kids spent their childhood climbing trees, I climbed the kitchen counter to get a closer look at the cooking going on. It is there that this compulsion was born.

I invite you to my world of food: from cooking to writing
to living life through memorable bites.
  • into the jaws of the best chocolate cake

    11 March 2010   Cakes, Recipes

    chocolate-cake

    My son has become obsessed with the idea of watching the movie Jaws. He assures me that he is mature enough to handle blood, guts, and whatever else comes his way and seems to be proving that point with the acquisition of extra bruises and cuts received from ordinary boyhood events like tree swinging gone wrong or miscalculating the path of a flying Frisbee made of sharp plastic (we later learned by the gash left under his eye). He is seven.

    His seven is not the seven I knew so many years ago. He makes every effort to remind me of how ooold I am. No cable. No cellular. No computer. Gasp. How did the world survive, his curl-ridden head wonders? As for movies, he knows nothing else but Surround Sound, 3-D, and special effects that are so believable you swear they are an extension of ourselves (think Avatar). So not my seven.

    So, he doesn’t understand me when I hesitate with Jaws. We talk about it often lately, over a piece of his favorite chocolate cake. It’s a simple cake. No glitz and glamour. No layers. No frosting. It even cracks ruthlessly on top. But inside, it is an ethereal cloud of pure chocolate, so light and fluffy and rich that you know if there is a bakery in Heaven, this is the cake they would serve. It’s the real deal. Sort of like Jaws. Or dare I sound like a curmudgeon, my seven.

    I try to explain that to him, that there is something so incredibly raw in the Jaws theme music that clings to those who saw it in its heyday (it does, you know it does, you are humming it now.) That music, and the idea of what came with it, changed how many of us viewed beaches forever. How long was it before my sister took another swim? And night swims? Forget it. That has remained off limits.

    We nosh on our cake and I remind my son of the beautiful beaches in Venezuela, where I grew up, and how quickly they became tainted and forbidden in our imagination by the introduction of Jaws. He looks at me confused, eating bitefuls of cake as voraciously as the beast I am trying to protect him from.

    It is a mother’s desperate attempt to shield her young son from pure fear. I know he’s seen it all, Ironman and Spiderman and Batman; not the safe versions of a generation ago, but the volatile and ominous renditions exploding off the movie screens today. Still, I am banking on their obvious superheroes to keep his fears at bay. Some dude in a tight suit swinging through New York City may seem improbable even to him, but a shark at the beach, similar to the beach he goes to every Sunday, is another story altogether.

    We’re onto another piece of cake and I think I’ve got this one sold. I’ve stalled his curiosity about the movie for another day. We’ve decided to give it some more thought before we proceed. Maybe it’s the cake. I seem to serve it alongside every one of our talks. But as we head outside to play he gulps the last bite of cake and offers me his characteristic curled lip, matter-of-factly announcing:

    “I don’t know what the big deal is, I already have seen most of it on YouTube.” And with that, I knew, there might be a Great White on the table for discussion, but I was fighting a whole other generation of seven. Cake anyone?

    Best Chocolate Cake

    chocolate-cake2

    This cake recipe belongs to Lindsey Shere, courtesy of Birthday Cakes by Kathryn Kleinman. We have made it our family’s official chocolate cake.

    1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons salted butter
    7 ½ ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
    1 ½ ounce unsweetened chocolate, chopped
    6 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
    1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
    6 tablespoons cake flour
    ½ teaspoon cream of tartar
    Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

    Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter the sides and bottom of a 9-inch round cake pan. Line the bottom with a round of parchment paper or waxed paper. Butter the paper and dust the sides and bottom of the pan with flour, shaking out excess.

    In a double boiler over simmering water, melt the butter. Add the chocolate and stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is very smooth. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

    In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks until just blended. Beat in sugar until mixed. Whisk yolk mixture into the warm chocolate mixture. Fold in the flour until blended.

    In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and continue beating until soft, rounded peaks form. Fold the egg whites quickly into the chocolate mixture, taking care not to deflate them.

    Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes, or until sides are set but center is soft. Remove from the oven and let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack. The cake will develop cracks in the top as it bakes and more will appear as it cools, but this is normal. When the cake has cooled to room temperature, you may cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil if not serving it right away. It will keep for a day or two.

    To serve, unmold the cake, peel off the paper and place cake on a plate. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve with whipped cream or ice cream.

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  • first kiss : concord grape sorbet

    4 March 2010   Dessert, Recipes

    He kissed me, not a soft kiss, but a forced, hurried one, right between Period 4 and Period 5, we stood there in a secret rushed moment of youth, I, at the ripened age of eleven and him, a much wiser and older twelve, he kissed me.

    And it was disgusting.

    Utterly disgusting.

    Not what little girls tucked comfortably away in their pink canopy beds dream about or are read to in tales of princes and peas where the kiss is The Event of Grandeur, ever so tender and complete and enveloping. The girl loses senses. Knees buckle. Long perfect blonde hair cascades between them. A tiny sigh is heard. And life as we know it is renewed.

    This is what I had expected, what I’d been promised, in countless years of fairy tale grooming. And even though it was the seventies, an era where women proudly burned bras and demanded from men things that had never been demanded before, this little girl expected to swoon, blush, and feel whole and refreshed by her first kiss.

    Instead, oceans of bubble gum grape saliva had infested my mouth. I’d always been a big fan of Hubba Bubba, heck, my sister and I nurtured our reputations based on the proud acknowledgement that we knew the guy who’d invented its unforgettable flavor, but, the critical difference was that I chose when to taste it and between Period 4 and Period 5 in the stairwell that day was not one of those moments.

    My kissing mate misread my initial hesitation as a moment of shyness (one of many poor calls in judgement) and proceeded to plunge further into my mouth; his thirsty, clumsy tongue digging deeper and deeper in feign attempts of pleasure he swept my throat for tonsils, it seemed. And I fought this alien creature slivering inside me, eyes watering, mind spinning, I wondered why I’d been fooled into believing this would be the luckiest moment of my life (and with a sixth grader no less!) But instincts are uncontrollable things and mine kicked in after the initial moment of horror wore off. I ripped myself away from my self-appointed courter and, right there, between Period 4 and Period 5, on his Nike-clad feet (coveted shoes hard to secure in Venezuela back then) I spat, spat, spat that Hubba Bubba flavor in desperate efforts to remove the memory from mind.

    I looked up to find a small ego staring back at me (for no one had used his toes as a spittoon before) and my eyes winced as my body moved away (wishing now I’d taken the main stairs and gotten a good seat at World Geography instead) and not a word transpired between us, two fallen lovebirds, both equally shocked by the action of the other, we drifted away leaving the stairwell with its memory and puddle of grape saliva.

    Sorbetto di Uva (Concord Grape Sorbet)

    (Gourmet Magazine, September 2009)

    For a grape flavor you will want!

    Ingredients
    2 pounds Concord grapes (about 2 quarts), stemmed, divided*
    3/4 cup superfine granulated sugar
    Equipment: an ice cream maker

    *Concord grapes are in season around early Fall. If you have none frozen and can't wait until October, you may use regular red grapes or replace the grapes with 1 container of Frozen Concord Grape Concentrate (reduce sugar to 1/3 in this case).

    Purée half of grapes in a blender until smooth, then force through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids. Repeat with remaining grapes to yield 3 cups purée. Whisk in sugar until dissolved. Chill until very cold, 3 to 6 hours.
    Freeze in ice cream maker, then transfer to an airtight container and put in freezer to firm up, at least 2 hours.

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  • purim hamantaschen cookies: to infinity and beyond

    18 February 2010   Dessert, Jewish Cooking, Recipes

    hamentaschen

    The first time I saw my rabbi dressed up as Buzz Lightyear I knew I was in the right place.  Most adults stared uneasily, not sure what to make of this grown man bounding happily in a bright green and white suit, but I felt right at home.  My children were with me at the time and quite naturally declared:  ”Look, there is rabbi Andrew!” just as they would if they’d seen him at Publix, the park, or up on the Bima.  There was no mention of the outfit, I assume because he wore it quite well, quite naturally.  I’d step out on a limb and confess he even seemed more comfortable in it than the stiff grown-up jackets he’d have to, on many occasions, wear.  This was, after all, Purim, the Jewish holiday that, not only allows, but expects silliness to reign. So it seemed fitting that Ramat Shalom would have a real life Buzz Lightyear headed your way.

    Sure, there’s the whole logical story behind it:  Purim commemorates how Queen Esther and Mordechai saved the Jews from Haman, the evil minister of the Persian king.  On this holiday, costumes are worn and the Megillah (the Book of Esther) is read to recount this tale of survival.  Hamantaschen, (also called “Oznei Haman”, or Haman Ears in Hebrew) are the treat of choice.  I nibble on my husband’s ear on ocassion, but it pales in comparison to this: tiny triangles of tender, buttery pastry curled up against a dollop of tangy apricot, hearty prunes, or, for the lucky ones, rich melted chocolate.

    For my kids Purim is equally important in their repertoire of holidays.  I assume they’d have to agree with Rabbi Andrew and say it’s because of the costumes- the opportunity to relive the splendor of Halloween, without having an ominous light to it.  Catalogues of costumes are meticulously scanned by my daughter and of course, there will be the mandatory visit or two to the party store to scour through their costume section.  It is much leaner than the selection they carry in October, but then again, so are the crowds of shoppers, so I don’t mind going several times to appease my kids.

    They look at pictures of witches and fairies and superheroes and eagerly discuss amongst themselves what they are going to be.  Then, they both turn to me and their eyes light up, two sets of beautiful almond eyes flanked by swooping long lashes lock on me and I know I am in trouble.  Their eyes are pools of irresistible power and when they shine in the light just so, swirling in a sea of butterscotch and they blink blink blink those eyes are powerful weapons and I know, whatever it is they want, I know they will get.  They know they’ve got me by the way my body just slows to a stop and I wait.  Wait for it. Whatever it is.  They smell victory.  They are good at this, they know.  Years of practice pays off.  So they ask me, not if, but what I am going to dress up as?  If I weren’t under their spell I’d try to tell them Purim is just for the kids to dress up, but I can’t say that, I won’t.  After all, their rabbi knows it’s all about goofy fun and is headed to infinity and beyond, so why shouldn’t I?

    Purim Hamantaschen Cookies

    From The Jewish Holiday Baker, by Joan Nathan

    1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter or parve margarine, at room temperature
    1 cup sugar
    1 large egg, beaten
    2 tablespoons orange juice
    1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
    2 teaspoons baking powder
    1/2 teaspoon salt
    2 tablespoons wheat germ
    2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
    Filling of choice

    Cream together the butter and sugar. Add egg, orange juice, vanilla, baking powder and salt and beat for one minute. Add the wheat germ and the flour, 1/2 cup at a time at a slow speed. The mixture will start to form a ball. Wrap and refrigerate the dough for 2 hours or overnight.

    Preheat oven to 375 degrees and grease 2 cookie sheets.
    On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to an 1/8-inch thickness. Cut in circles with a 2-inch cookie cutter or the floured rim of a 2-inch glass. Place 1 tablespoon of filling of your choice in the center of the circle. Pinch together 3 corners evenly spaced along the edge of the circle to form a triangular hamantaschen shape. Some of the filling will show in the center. Arrange the cookies on the cookie sheets 1 inch apart.

    Bake 1 sheet at a time in the middle rack of the oven for 10-12 minutes until hamantaschen are golden brown.

    Fillings can include; nuts, poppy seeds, apricot, strawberry or prune lekvar or jam, chocolate chips or bittersweet chocolate.

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  • cheater’s love: cherry liquor cake

    11 February 2010   Cakes, Recipes

    cherry-liquor-cake

    Cheating comes in many shapes and sizes, and in this case, flavors.  Sitting at the dinner table, next to The Professor and The Investor a tiny bead of sweat may begin to form on your brow, not because you can’t keep up with the talk, you are eloquent and intelligent and sophisticated, but because something much worse is about to happen, something that can shatter you but instead fuels you on, something you know no one will notice but you wonder what if they will? (Remember the time you hired the Personal Chef and you could tell right away, yes, you could, she had cheated on her cake.)  You are about to cheat on your gourmand title and are feeling a tad guilty because you know that the Investment Banker and the Professor are both wondering what delicious dessert The Famous Baker they are seated next to has brought for this intimate dinner party.

    It will be good, it must be good, they acknowledge amongst themselves with self-assured stares.  You feel the tension rising; stakes are high. The asparagus soup was a delightful ice breaker from your host as was the equally tasty pot roast (albeit a tad simple, you would have added a pomegranate glaze with a hint of balsamic, because you are The Gourmand, the one with a drawer bursting with dried herbs and a garden exploding with fresh ones. They look up to and enjoy inviting you for obvious reasons.)

    You love them all for it.  Each and every one is endeared to your heart in one fashion or another and you have volunteered dessert as a sign of this love. You have brought this cake, this magnificently simple cake, and like a true cheater you do feel that pang of guilt, an edge of betrayal, but you smile and bring forth your goods without revealing that inside the moist texture and chestnut top glistening with confectioner’s sugar lies a secret, a deep, dark secret you will never confess; must never confess.  You will only smile and say “thank you” as “oohs” and “ahhs” purr around you, deliciousness halts all conversation as forks greedily work cake into bellies that have anticipated but never realized such wonderful moist delights existed.

    Of course, all cheaters need an outlet.  They need to get caught one way or another, and so, even if you are not willing to confess it in an intimate setting of twelve, you do so here, in this world wide platform of food lovers with the hope there will be some level of understanding.  Perhaps another occasional culinarian cheater will be reading this, one who will understand that a cake so delicious and easy and such an instant success originates not from the sweat of hours of kneading or mixing or even sifting, but right out of one of those cake boxes, no, strike that, two boxes, a horrible powdered pack of Betty Crocker Super Moist yellow cake mix and an equally horrible smaller box of pudding mix:  two things sacriligious to your identity, items your children gasp upon seeing (for they have been trained, well trained, to retract at the sight of preservatives.) And yet, here is this one tiny exception, when you allow it, better yet, celebrate it, quietly going against all beliefs and scruples, even trying to look the other way as you pour these tiny toxic boxes with way too many ingredients into your bowl and then redeeming your conscience by adding the rightful stuff:  organic eggs, sour cream, cherry liquor- all to create a celebrated smooth cake that eminates only compliments, lots and lots of compliments, reconfirming and elevating your status as The Best Baker All Around. Almost enough to make you not feel like a cheat in the kitchen, but like the tell tale heart that beats loudly under the wooden planks, you too can hear these ingredients shouting out their identity to your guests:

    She didn’t do it all alone!  She used Betty Crocker!  And pudding mix!  She’s a cheater, a cheater, a cheater!

    You manage to subside that voice and listen to the other dinner guests: they loved it and wonder what is that secret ingredient that makes it so good?

    Of course, you know what to say.  It is not Niacin or dye #3, no no no, it is cherry liquor.

    “Cherry liquor?” they ask, utterly impressed.

    “Ah, yes, cherry liquor!” you reply with a casual air of sophistication.

    And you laugh freely with them, the sweat dries, and you continue celebrating this intimate moment alongside The Professor and The Investor, both, asking for seconds, making your host beam as well.  Her dinner party is a success.  You have come through, you always come through, you are The Gourmand,  and although you rarely cheat, you realize this cheat is worth all the love and all the compliments, making it the perfect Valentine’s day dessert.

    Cherry Liquor Cake

    True cheaters always steal something. This recipe was taken from my good friend and amazing cook, Paula Faisal Jimenez.

    1 yellow cake box (pick extra moist)
    ¼ cup poppy seeds
    1 cup sour cream
    4 eggs
    ½ cup oil
    ½ cup cherry liquor
    confectioners’ sugar, as needed

    Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
    Mix all ingredients well.
    Bake in a bundt pan for 30 minutes.
    Cool 10 minutes in pan, then remove and cool on rack.
    Sprinkle top with confectioners’ sugar.

    Serves 8-10

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  • superbowl touchdown: salt

    4 February 2010   Recipes, Salads

    salt-caprese

    It’s Mark’s eyes that draw you in. I first came across them at a food conference in an expansive dining hall in Denver filled with big round tables and mounds of mini croissants. They were clear and blue and electric, like the calm before a storm or a lazy careless morning on the shores of St. Barts, but when they are engaged in a conversation with you, a conversation inevitably and rightfully about, what else, salt, the entire room gets filled with an intoxicating culinary energy that is simply contagious.

    Mark Bitterman, owner and self-proclaimed selmelier of The Meadow shop in Portland, Oregon first told me about his store  specializing in salts, flowers, drinks and chocolates when we first met in Denver. It sounded lovely to own a quaint shop in the even quainter town of Portland and I imagined it overflowing with roses and pinot noir and an old-time world charm non-existent to my South Florida neighborhood whose foundations seem built on an abhorred obsession with strip malls and Applebees restaurants.

    Then I attended his salt tasting at the Greenbrier and I was a changed woman. It was the nightcap to an evening filled with good wine and food. No doubt the wrong time for this, I thought to myself as my belly sat complacent and my body ached for my warm bed. I’m too full, and, it’s just salt, right? But I went anyway, because, quite frankly, how often can one say they’ve attended a salt tasting?

    The room was cramped with other equally intoxicated foodies from the conference and Mark and a colleague were feverishly slicing cucumbers and buttering breads (I learned this was the way to sample salts, both a wet tasting and a dry one, respectively). And once that was all set, that is when those electric eyes kicked in as Mark pulled tiny glass bottles of multi-colored salt crystals, describing their characteristics, origins and tastes with the care, attention and passion a father does of his own children (this one has a mischievous streak, this one is faithful and delicious, this one will capture your heart.) I basked in an impassioned survey of the world of salt from colors to crystal formations to textures and realized it was a world  I knew nothing about, one where I learned I’d been, not only neglecting but abusing my taste buds with Kosher salt (tsk tsk), an item too sharp and unpolished to warrant the tongue.

    It sounded crazy unless you were in that room, with that man and his cucumber and bread slices, and then it was just right because not only did he teach you, but he showed you as well, with bite after bite of salts, I learned to understand the nuances and beauty of the world of salt. And just like that, I was forever infected.

    The night ended with a big show-off item: a huge beautiful block of Himalayan salt. Mark explained the many usages for such a block: from frying up the best egg ever, to sizzling pomme frites  (use the duck fat from that is cooking on your block as well), to curing sashimi and I knew that, alongside all the new salts I had to purchase to feel complete I must also have one of these.

    As folks prepare to dish out the pizza, chicken wings and nachos for this weekend’s Superbowl, I will be fetching my beautiful block of salt for the simplest and tastiest of snacks: ensalata caprese. Thin slices of fresh mozzarella and plump tomato hugged by my garden basil and cured by my Himalayan beauty swim wonders on my tastebuds, making that, the best touchdown ever!

    Himalayan Salt Caprese Salad

    Surprisingly, this dish goes well with beer!

    1 tomato, thinly sliced
    2 balls fresh mozarella, thinly sliced
    1/4 cup fresh basil

    Overlap items directly on the block and allow to sit for several minutes before eating. To clean, simply rinse block with water and let dry before storing.

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