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While most kids spent their childhood climbing trees, I climbed the kitchen counter to get a closer look at the cooking going on. It is there that this compulsion was born.

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  • venezuelan ham bread: feliz navidad

    18 December 2008   Breads, Recipes

    Growing up in a tropical country during the winter holiday season had its apparent disadvantages for a young child.
    Snow, for one, was a misnomer reserved for the obscure North where Santa and many flush-faced giddy elves allegedly worked under a flurry of coveted snowflakes.
    The foliage didn’t help set the mood either:
    not a pine tree in sight, in fact, my family’s backyard alone was cluttered with trees adorned with sun-drenched fruits like limes, mangoes, and bananas.

    Then you had to fight your way through the hummingbirds, lizards, parrots, guacamayas and, of course, Murtle The Turtle, our tenured pet who inconveniently preferred strategically treacherous spots, such as the walkway, to sunbathe its crusty head.
    None of this was shouting ho-ho-ho, if you know what I mean.
    Still, the benefits of a December spent 8 degrees north of the equator seemed to far outweigh the desperate longings for a Nordic Christmas.
    Top on the list was the annual Holiday Commercial, a much-anticipated event where all the local soap opera celebrities crooned about peace and love and the Holy Spirit in a 7-minute spot played incessantly on television during the month of December. Hanukkah never quite made it to the predominantly Catholic airwaves.
    Anticipation for this event would commence as early as October, when viewers would begin to wonder what spin the holiday commercial would have.
    When December would arrive, everyone (and I mean everyone) gathered and watched as the telenovela icons (who enjoy Supreme Being status in Venezuela) would shed their nightly bouts of runny mascara, lost fortunes and forlorn love and gather in one big happy circle of love and holiday spirit singing about the joys of Baby Jesus and the prosperity promised for the coming New Year.
    An impressive imported tree that would make Rockefeller’s look like a key chain ornament, sparkled in the background and big chunky pieces of foam rained down on the celeb fest in attempts to transform the humid climate into one of winter.
    I admit I was a telenovela junkie from the early age of about seven.
    While my American contemporaries basked in the morally correct episodes of “The Brady Bunch” and “Gilligan’s Island”, I nourished my distorted sense of reality with scandalous classics such as “Crystal” and “Topacio.” I followed all the trials and tribulations of each and every character, knew who was the real sister, who stole whose fortune, and what the hospitalized mummy with the lustrous blonde hair was muttering through her gauze when no one else could understand.
    So, to say I was obsessed with these Christmas commercials is really putting it mildly.
    Food was often tied in to these lovefests.
    After the camera tired of trying to make Eduardo Serrano appear tall or hide Hilda Carrero’s double chin, it would span out to a glorious table loaded with Venezuelan Christmas goodies.
    Each dish looked more delicious than the next, from the pineapple-glazed Christmas ham to the steaming Hallaca, a traditional tamale-like specialty wrapped in plantain leaves and stuffed with pork, chicken, capers and raisins.
    Displayed up front would be a golden loaf of pan de jamon:
    another indispensible item for a Venezuelan Christmas.
    As a child I could never eat just one piece of pan de jamon.
    The combination of warm sweet dough wrapped with salty ham, briny olives and juicy raisins almost forced me to keep eating, always leaving me happy and very full.
    And as much as I adored my soap opera idols, I remember feeling envious of them; not particularly for the honorary role of shedding good cheer to all the Channel 4 viewers, but because of the amazing spread that I believed awaited them after each performance.
    I imagined them finishing their carol, brushing off the snowflakes, and devouring all the delights on the table and all the while I’d be trapped watching The “Flinstones”, awaiting their return.
    When the Holiday Commercial did finally return, I’d perk up and prep my voice to sing along, catch each excruciating detail of all my favorite and familiar celebrities, and double check the food table to make sure everything was still there.

    Venezuelan Ham Bread

    For the bread:

    • 2 cups milk
    • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) sweet butter
    • ½ cup granulated sugar
    • 2 packages active dry yeast
    • 4 eggs at room temperature
    • 2 teaspoons salt
    • 6 cups flour
    • 1/3 cup cornmeal
    • 1 tablespoon cold water

    For the filling:

    • 1 ½ pounds best-quality ham (Black Forest, Virginia, or Tavern-style), sliced regular
    • 1 ½ cup pitted green olives
    • 1 ½ cup dark raisins

    Bring milk, 6 tablespoons butter, and the sugar to a boil together in a medium-size saucepan.
    Remove from heat; pour into a large mixing bowl and let cool to lukewarm (105 – 115 degrees.)
    Stir yeast into the milk mixture and let stand for 10 minutes.
    Beat 3 of the eggs well in a small bowl and stir them and salt into the milk/yeast mixture.
    Stir in 5 cups of the flour, 1 cup at a time, until you achieve sticky dough.
    Flour a work surface lightly and turn the dough out onto it.
    Wash and dry bowl.
    Sprinkle additional flour over the dough and begin kneading, adding more flour as necessary, until you have a smooth elastic dough.
    Smear the reserved 2 tablespoons butter around the inside of the bowl and add the ball of dough into the bowl, turning to coat it lightly with butter.
    Cover bowl with a towel and set aside to let dough rise until tripled in bulk, approximately 2-3 hours.
    Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and cut into half, lightly punching dough down.
    Put each half in separate bowls and let rise another hour.
    On a floured surface, roll out ball to about ¼ inch thickness in a rectangular shape.
    On the top part of the dough, begin placing the ham, slightly overlapping, working your way to the bottom of the dough, leaving about one inch of dough at the end.
    Add olives and raisins throughout.
    Gently roll dough towards you until bread is formed.
    Pinch tightly on ends to seal and fold ends underneath.
    Sprinkle a large baking sheet with cornmeal and transfer the loaves to the sheet.
    Leave room between the loaves for them to rise.
    Cover loaves with the towel and let rise another hour.
    Preheat oven to 350 F
    Eat the remaining egg and 1 tablespoon cold water together in a small bowl.
    Pierce loves on top with a fork.
    Brush egg wash evenly over loaves.
    Set baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven.
    Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until loaves are golden brown.
    Cool on rack.
    Makes 2 large loaves

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    1. Rocky Kovacik says

      Hey, just ran into this website from digg. This isn’t not an article I would regularly read, but I loved your thoughts on it. Thanx for creating a piece worth reading!

      4 June 2011 23:25

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